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I just had the best pastry

called a medialuna or half moon. 

It was just like a “croissant” in french means crescent, like the moon. (but those are called cornetto or brioche in Italian).

It was like a croissant but folded in half instead of rolled, so it was a lot denser. Also there is a butter sugar glaze on the outside, so it caramelized a bit. And inside is a butter cream filling. 

I got it at the bakery right outside of our apartment and now I will definitely be getting one again, especially now that I know what it is called! So hopefully I can pause and take a picture of the next one. 

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art that I saw that I was overwhelmed by
note that I couldn’t take pictures at the Uffizi, so this is just the picture from Wikipedia
For my visit at the Uffizi I am planning on writing about a few works, among them Primavera, Judith and Holofernes, and Bacchus. But Giotto’s Madonna was definitely the greatest experience to see and the most overwhelming. 
I don’t get overwhelmed by art a lot. I pride myself on my ability to take in a lot of works in one day and not get tired of it. There are two distinct times when I remember, before Florence, getting overwhelmed by the art itself. I can be in front of a really important painting to me and not be overwhelmed. Like when I saw the Barberini Tapestries that I spent two semesters working with, I was not overwhelmed because, honestly, in person they aren’t all that visually stunning despite their monumental size. 
The first was at MoMA when I was 18 visiting my cousin in New York. There was a room full of Mark Rothko’s. So on every wall there were at least two of his paintings and nothing else. I had take a break in another room and come back to it. The second time was at the Philadelphia Museum of Art, where I was visiting my beloved Constantine tapestries, a companion to the Pope Urban VIII ones. I turned a corner in the Modern art section and saw Dorothea Tanning’s Birthday, which is definitely my favorite self-portrait ever and probably my favorite piece of surrealism. I had no idea it was in the museum. So I turn a corner and there in all of its beauty. That was overwhelming. 
Now for Giotto’s Madonna, I knew I was going to see it and I knew pretty much when I was going to see it. The Uffizi is laid out in a U and at one top point in the U begins late medieval/proto-Renaissance works. So This really was one of the first pieces of art that I saw, outside of portraits of Medici. The thing is that I wasn’t immediately grabbed by it. I saw it and thought “That’s Giotto’s Madonna,” and went on my way to where my tour guide was. But then as she was talking about, I think a Cimabue Madonna, I slowly moved back over and just starting staring. 
This is the piece of art that move us from medieval to Renaissance. This is the turning point of my interests. If I find a piece of art and claim 10 years of influence on either side as my specialty, this would be it. 
We have the triangle of figures created with the lower angels, foreshadowing nearly every Michelangelo composition. The chiaroscuro of the skirt is insanely good. And it is so big! Part of my experience may have been how the Uffizi displays this work. Instead of having the work up against the wall, it is standing upright, kind of on a little platform so that you can see the back of it. So it is really imposing and immediate. 
The longer I am in Florence, the more I want to forsake Baroque art all together and just become an Early Renaissance scholar. 

art that I saw that I was overwhelmed by

note that I couldn’t take pictures at the Uffizi, so this is just the picture from Wikipedia

For my visit at the Uffizi I am planning on writing about a few works, among them Primavera, Judith and Holofernes, and Bacchus. But Giotto’s Madonna was definitely the greatest experience to see and the most overwhelming. 

I don’t get overwhelmed by art a lot. I pride myself on my ability to take in a lot of works in one day and not get tired of it. There are two distinct times when I remember, before Florence, getting overwhelmed by the art itself. I can be in front of a really important painting to me and not be overwhelmed. Like when I saw the Barberini Tapestries that I spent two semesters working with, I was not overwhelmed because, honestly, in person they aren’t all that visually stunning despite their monumental size. 

The first was at MoMA when I was 18 visiting my cousin in New York. There was a room full of Mark Rothko’s. So on every wall there were at least two of his paintings and nothing else. I had take a break in another room and come back to it. The second time was at the Philadelphia Museum of Art, where I was visiting my beloved Constantine tapestries, a companion to the Pope Urban VIII ones. I turned a corner in the Modern art section and saw Dorothea Tanning’s Birthday, which is definitely my favorite self-portrait ever and probably my favorite piece of surrealism. I had no idea it was in the museum. So I turn a corner and there in all of its beauty. That was overwhelming. 

Now for Giotto’s Madonna, I knew I was going to see it and I knew pretty much when I was going to see it. The Uffizi is laid out in a U and at one top point in the U begins late medieval/proto-Renaissance works. So This really was one of the first pieces of art that I saw, outside of portraits of Medici. The thing is that I wasn’t immediately grabbed by it. I saw it and thought “That’s Giotto’s Madonna,” and went on my way to where my tour guide was. But then as she was talking about, I think a Cimabue Madonna, I slowly moved back over and just starting staring. 

This is the piece of art that move us from medieval to Renaissance. This is the turning point of my interests. If I find a piece of art and claim 10 years of influence on either side as my specialty, this would be it

We have the triangle of figures created with the lower angels, foreshadowing nearly every Michelangelo composition. The chiaroscuro of the skirt is insanely good. And it is so big! Part of my experience may have been how the Uffizi displays this work. Instead of having the work up against the wall, it is standing upright, kind of on a little platform so that you can see the back of it. So it is really imposing and immediate. 

The longer I am in Florence, the more I want to forsake Baroque art all together and just become an Early Renaissance scholar. 

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Can’t tell if I have shivers because of the glory of Cimabue and Giotto, or because it is 25 degrees outside.

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Research Goals

One of the main reasons I wanted to come to Florence was the novel, A Room with a View. The name of my blog actually is a chapter title from the book, and refers to the fact that my university is in the Santa Croce area. 

I love that I feel like Lucy Honeychurch when I am here. I am seeing the art that Forster saw and wrote about. 

I am planning on writing my English Literature senior seminar on voyeurism as a mechanism of transcending binaries in the novel. 

But much more pertinent in my research aspirations in Florence is the Italian art. Ever since my first Art History survey course, I’ve had an affinity for Italian art over German or French. I love looking and studying all of it. And my favorite research subjects only really occur in Italian art. 

The big problem with this is that intersections of my research interests happen anywhere between 1250-1700 in Italy. What I love researching are Catholic-motivated, biographical cycles. So cycles of Christ’s life, a saint’s life, or a pope/cardinal’s life. They aren’t excessively available just because a cycle requires a larger commitment than a single scene, both by patron and artist. But the cycles also aren’t limited by a certain style, artist or time period. 

So far, I’ve studied two cycles in depth, in two very different classes. My first experience with them was the tapestry cycle of The Life of Pope Urban VIII, as designed by Pietro da Cortona and executed by the Barberini arrazeria. I looked at the cycle within its situational and political context. The second was the cycle of the Life of Christ (including the Life of the Virgin), on the walls of the Arena Chapel by Giotto di Bondone. In that research, I studied what I called the “explicit” and “implicit” narratives of the scenes, or those narratives readily available to viewer when looking at a scene versus those that contextual information is required. Specifically I looked at how Giotto’s architecture played out these varying types of narratives. 

So I am looking at nearly 500 years of Italian art for a biographical cycle that both speaks to me and that I have something to say about. Enough to say for a whole senior thesis. 

Ideally, I want a High Renaissance cycle. But I am just not seeing them. Where are you, Quattrocento cycles? I’ve done research on an Early Renaissance and a Baroque cycle. But my cozy Art History spot is the High Renaissance. Still, I like transitional periods, so give me some Giotto and Michelangelo to test my limits! But if I can’t find one satisfying in the High Renaissance, I have a few options that I am looking to on either end of the spectrum (another conundrum! that I am so interested in these transitional periods, but that no potential doctoral adviser is going to study both Late Medieval and Baroque. so I feel pressure to make a decision on where I land right now. Ultimately the decision is one of whether or not I am ready to forsake my beloved papacy for more mercantile patrons). 

One option that I am looking at: the French Gothic’s influence on Giotto, specifically in his architecture across all his works, including two cycles (The Arena Chapel, as discussed before, and the Bardi Chapel’s cycle of St. Francis). This could also look at precedents in the Byzantine/Siense style of cycles of both the biographies of Christ and St. Francis (on movable pictures, like altarpieces), as well as the St. Francis cycle in Assisi by an unknown master in Giotto’s style.  

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art that I saw that I was overwhelmed by

Laocoön and His Sons, 25 BC, The Vatican Museums

This marble statue shows the Trojan priest Laocoön and his son being killed by serpents sent to them by Poseidon after Laocoön attempts to thwart the Greeks’ plan of sending the Trojan Horse into the walls of the city.  

The statue was discovered in 1506, and Pope Julius II acquired it and placed in the garden of the Vatican. The statue was a great influence on Michelangelo and the cultural consciousness of the Renaissance. 

I was just so overwhelmed by it, just because it looks so Baroque. Nevermind the bizarre body proportions of the sons to Laocoön, the intertwining figures and dynamism completely distract from any lack of proportionality. I love the anecdote about the missing arm. When it is was first discovered, the right arm of Laocoön himself was missing. Michelangelo predicted that it would be bent back behind the figure. But the pope had a contest for sculptors to make a new arm and Raphael chose the winner, an arm outstretched. Much later in the early 1900’s an archaeologist found the arm! And it turned out that it was much more like what Michelangelo had thought. 

That anecdote points to the differences between Michelangelo and Raphael’s legacies. Michelangelo tipped the world forward into Baroque dynamism, while Raphael represents the pinnacle of Renaissance grace. 

The situation of the statue is a little niche inside of a garden. This was the first of many times where I lost my tour guide group just because I didn’t want to leave. The Laocoön Group is just that good. 

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Pretty much all I am eating in Italy is pizza.

I honestly haven’t ordered pasta once while I’ve been here. 

Pasta is like one part of a bigger meal so the servings are tiny, but my budget is not quite where I can order three dishes for each meal.

So I’ve been getting pizza which is about the same as a pasta dish, but fills me up.

Also, I will order anything that has prosciutto on it. 

I definitely consider myself a ham person, (I rarely eat chicken or beef). But I’ve never eaten it for every meal all the time. But prosciutto is so much better than anything else!

It is basically becoming my Italian goat cheese. (Back home, if something on the menu has goat cheese in it, I will order it, without fail). 

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Walking Tour in Rome included a trip to the Coliseum and Roman Forum. 

The Coliseum was probably my favorite part of Rome that I have pictures of. My camera died when we got to the Piazza Navona! 

But the Coliseum is just there. 

Like you turn a corner and WHAM! there is four stories of ancient amphitheater staring you in the face. And the views of the Roman forum and the three triumphal arches (Titus, Severus Septimus and Constantine) were very impressive. 

Still my “I’m in Italy!” moment came from the Piazza Navona. I think this is because we entered it from the side and so I saw everything that I had seen in pictures before, but from a way different angle. At the forum and Coliseum we were usually in the vantage points of lots of pictures. But Piazza Navona is almost never photographed for like academic purpose from the side we came in. So that was when it really felt like I was in Italy and not a picture book. 

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my 33

today was a majorpurging and reorganization of my life, or at least my clothes. 

I picked my 33 pieces of clothes today. 

And to be honest I fudged the rules a bit. 

I didn’t include my purse. oops! But it is incredibly utilitarian and I use it almost exclusively for school. 

But here’s my list. I tried to be really true to myself, so as you see I stuck with a color palette that I love/look good in, instead of trying to do all neutrals. I also have a lot more dresses than other people that I’ve seen doing the project, but I am a dress type of gal. 

  1. Skinny Jeans
  2. Brown Skirt
  3. Grey Skirt
  4. Patterned Tank (green, blue, yellow, purple)
  5. Low back teal top
  6. Sweetheart teal top
  7. Purple tee
  8. Purple sweater
  9. Blue sweater
  10. Purple Cardigan
  11. Pink Cardigan
  12. Grey and White Striped Cardigan
  13. Black and White patterned dress
  14. Teal Dressy Dress
  15. Grey Dressy Dress
  16. Elephant Print Dress
  17. Blue and Blue Print Dress
  18. Purple Dress
  19. Black Dress
  20. Grey Ruffle Tank Dress
  21. Grey Long Sleeved Dress
  22. Blue Wool Coat
  23. Trench Raincoat
  24. Peacock patterned scarf
  25. Purple patterned scarf
  26. Purple tights
  27. Grey tights
  28. Fishnet tights
  29. Cognac boots
  30. Black boots
  31. Red heels
  32. Cognac flat oxfords
  33. Black heels

We’ll see how practical this is. I may do some substitutions and cheat a little bit, just because this is really a dry run for studying abroad. 

And it sort of goes without saying that you aren’t supposed to buy things while you are doing this. But there are a few quality pieces that I am yearning after including: a lace dress, lace tights, knee high socks to wear with boots.